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About Squash
Summer and winter squash, though worlds apart in flavor and appearance are only two of vast array of members of the curcurbit family of vegetables which counts melons, gourds and pumpkins among its' members.
All squash are considered to be vine crops although some are less inclined to vine and more likely to be od a bushy variety than others. Most of the summer squash cultivars you buy today are of a bush variety that are more adaptable to being grown closer together, increasing the yield per square foot. Conversely, most winter squash are available as vine growing curcurbits.
All members of the gourd family are native to America. Most pumpkins and squashes originated from Central America and were in use all over North America by the native cultures by the time english settlers reached the continent. Winter squahes primarily originated in or near the Andes in northern Argentina.
All squash thrive under the same basic growing conditions which leads many gardeners to plan out a section of the garden for members of this family to grow together. Rich soil and warm weather are the two key components to a happy planting of curcurbits and both winter and summer squash will provide you a seemingly endless bounty should you manage to provide these two conditions.
Planning
There are essentially two growing methods to consider when planning for your squash. Bush types which most summer squash mostly are, will prefer to be grown in rows. The vining types will prefer to be grown in groups of hills or in planting circles.
When planting squash in rows you will need to plan for allowing four feet between rows of plants on either side. You will plant several seeds together every foot at a depth of one inch. After two to three weeks when true leaves have appeared it will become neccessary to thin the plants to every eighteen inches.
For those planning on growing your bush type squash from transplant allow 18 inches between plants when setting them in your garden row. Whether you decide to set out transplants or grow from seed it is imperative that you allow for any chance of frost to have passed before your plants are started outdoors. If you plan on growing your squash from transplants then start those plants three to four weeks before the last frost date in individual pots.
Squah will readily and easily cross polinate so be sure to plan on new seed every year as the resultant fruits of a cross polinated squash can be alarmingly odd and most often inedible. It is worth experiment to see what nature serves up when different varieties mix, but do not plan on your squash providing a perrennial supply of fruit. Every year should be a new planting as far as your squash are concerned.
Preparation
Squash may well respond to fertile soil better than any crop you are likely to grow in your garden. Be sure when preparing your bed for summer and winter varieties that you work in plenty of rich organic material before planting. For vining types the typical method is to work in a bushel of well rotted cow manure beneath every hill and cover this with two to four inches of rich topsoil before planting your seeds. If a source of manure is unavailable to you work in plenty of compost and a fertilizer such as a 5-10-10 into the top five to seven inches of soil for every hill.
Because squash are warm-season crops it pays to plant them only after the soil is completely warmed, usually a week or more after the last frost.
Care
Only a few weeks after planting your squash will begin to blossom with many bright and delicate yellow flowers. These flowers are edible and worth trying. All of the earliest flowers to come will be male and will therfore not bear fruit. The female flowers will follow within a couple weeks. You will be able to discern the difference because the female flowers will swell beneath the blossom.
Pollination of squash is handled by bees as the pollen is too heavy to be airborne. Wet weather will prevent early pollination, but the squash plants will provide plenty of opportunity for pollination so if your first round of female flowers dies off in cool weather do not become overly concerned.
Weed young plants but be careful not to damage their shallow root systems. As the squash grow they will do a magnificent job of self weeding by shading out any competition when their foliage reaches full growth.
Your plantings will require deep and regular watering throughout the summer. On average you want to be sure to be giving them one inch per week. In hot and dry climates yo umay increase this by two to threefold. A good layering of mulch can cut down on both the need for weeding young plants and the amount of watering required.
If squash is a particularly important crop for your family consider trickle irrigation and black plastic mulch as the ultimate combination to benefit your plants.
Over fertilization is a problem with squash. If you prepared their rows or hills with enough organic matter when you planted them then side dressing will not be required. Over fertilization of squash will promote leaf and stem growth at the expense of fruit. Some gardeners may wish at harvest time they had done exactly that!
Winter squash vines require a little extra attention during the growing season to keep them from taking over the garden. Where space is limited or the season is short you will want to pinch off the fuzzy end of each vine after a few squash have started so the plant will focus its energy on maturing the fruit instead of growing new ones. As a general rule of thumb the larger a variety of squash the fewer fruit to expect per vine. For example while acorn squash may yield six to ten fruit per vine, hubbard squash may only give you two at most per vine.
Pests / Disease
All curcurbits suffer from the same diseases and pests. Both summer and winter squash are vulnerable to attack from from Cucumber Beetles. These critters are especially dangerous to your young plants as they are voracious eaters of the tender foliage. The simplest form of resisting these insects is to start your plants either indoors or under a protective cover such as a coldframe. By the time your squash outgrow their initial home and are ready for transplant they will be hardy enough to withstand all but the worst infestation of Cucumber Beetle.
Squash vine borers are a problem everywhere but the the extreme western regions of the country. The larvae chew tunnels into the stalks which will cause wilting and eventual death of the plants. If you see a yellow grain-like substance on your squash this is often the first sign you will have that you have a squash vine borer infestation.
A clever mechanism against the squash vine borer is to try and prevent the moths that leave their eggs on squash leaves from landing by laying aluminum foil under the plant with the shiny side up. The foil acts as a mirror reflecting sunlight which makes it difficult for the moths to find the plants. You can additionally wrap the stems themselves with aluminum foil to further prevent the moths from being able to lay their eggs there. Mostly you will need to remain aware of your plants and look for egg clusters. If you find them scrape them off and destroy the eggs. They will most often be found on the underside of leaves and on the stems.
Yet another pest to your winter and summer varieties both are teh aptly named squash bugs. These little monsters suck the sap from leaves and stems which causes wilting and plant death. Look for clusters of shiny red eggs on the underside of leaves. Either destroy the eggs or simply remove any affected foliage and dispose of it.
Diseases that affect squash include powdery mildew, bacterial wilt, squah mosaic virus and downy mildew. When selecting your squash varities look for disease resistant varieties.
Harvesting
Summer squash is harvested while still immature and tender. Winter squashes are best harvested only after the outer rind has hardened which is usually two to three months after the summer squash have been harvested. Winter squash provide a richer, fuller flavor than do their summer counterparts which is a welcome culinary addition as the weather begins to turn cold and our pallettes are looking for rich and satisfying flavors.
Pick your squash continually for a steady supply of young fruit. Zucchini, straightneck and crookneck types are usually picked at between one and two inches in diameter. Although your plants will seek to create enormous fruit they are best when picked at this smaller size. Scallop type squash such as Patty Pan will be best if harvested at about 4 inches in diameter.
Squash Varieties
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